People : Rahul @ Churchgate

This is Rahul. I have never written about people in the blog and yet this stranger I met inspired me to do it. Rahul lives at Churchgate station, Mumbai. During the day he is out on the street or so I assume. But it wasn't then that I met him.

It was late at night around 12 when I was rushing at Churchgate station. In my rush i entered the ATM at the station to withdraw money and I met him. The ATM machine kiosk was a relief from the humid damp atmosphere , so characteristic of Mumbai , during summers. And there was Rahul.

Rahul was arranging his belongings in there, next to the ATM. Like so many other people who sleep on sidewalks and slums , he seemed a little privileged, spreading his bedding in the kiosk.

Me: What's your name?

R : Rahul

Me: Can I take a picture?

R : (After a little thinking) OK

Me: Thanks (Putting the camera back in my bag)

R : Can I see the picture?

Me: Sure

R Smiles.

Au revoir.

(Yeh hai Mumbai meri jaan... I say to myself)

In the most deplorable conditions people manage to smile. In the most luxurious conditions people manage to complain. Is there any correlation between happiness and material well being?

Restaurants : Leopold Cafe

Leopold Cafe since 1871 - Anyone who has visited / stayed in Mumbai for sometime would have heard of this place. Of late the place has gained additional publicity and adulation with its mention in Shantaram. Leopold is yet another character in the book and the description of the place in the book is pretty much accurate EXCEPT...

Except that its a description by an firang.

Leopold is a place that has by now got some historical significance and classical value. It is a place that retains it's old time charm. It is a place that hasn't changed much over the time. It is a place that refuses to comtemporarise. And in it lies the classical charm of the place. Each table has a red rose. A menu card under the glass on the table. A cheque table cloth. The wooden chairs. In current times the place also sells some tee shirts "conveying the Leopold brand name" and copies of Shantaram at the cash counter. It has the beauty of old time Irani Restaurants catering to the British in the pre-independence era.

And form the pre-independence era one unpleasant feel that the place has also retained is its biasedness towards "Indians". And it is not positive for sure. the place is courteous for sure but only for the firangs. The waiters will make sure you feel it. Even if you choose to understand that it might be stress and overwork that is tiring the waiters and that their condescension is towards one and all - wait and watch. The same waiter will treat the firangs in a different way. They are rather hostile. Two instances from my recent visit include:

• Not serving the cutlery saying " Aap to haath se hi khaa lenge" not that it offended us but just the tone, it was hostile not appreciative or relatable.
• "We don't serve pints much here, people come and do time pass here with the cheaper pints" , was the prompt reply of the waiter when my friend asked for a pint and he said it with a twinkle in his eye.

That is why perhaps I say just wait and watch. And that is why i mentioned don't be carried away by Gregory's description of the place. As an Indian and a localite you may not feel as great at this ironically old time place, old in all senses of the word. If anyone can convey the message to the management of LEO's , please do. Tell them to sensitise their waiters a bit for the global Indian seems to have arrived everywhere except at LEOs.

If you are at Colaba causeway, Mumbai I would say try LEO's at least once, to get a taste of being discriminated on your own land. Its subtle and not so much in your face but its hostile and it sure exists!